Looking at Lanvin’s latest Resort Collection one can notice that there’s no single inspirational background, or central message. Elbaz took a wide-ranging approach to his 2014 Resort collection, which was also seen for Fall. It was seen on some various types of flats, like the pair of holographic sneakers worn with a draped jersey dress, Elbaz brings out a rather carefree vibe. It was an attitude that was also seen on the stretch neoprene that according to him was developed by a bra company, which Elbaz used for all sorts of details, including the eye-popping red cocktail dress that is able to hide all kinds of things, and show off everything else. Each look is different, tailored to that one unique moment in your life when you step through the door and into different settings.
Of the almost fifty photographs by Hervé Guibert on view at the Callicoon Fine Arts, the exhibition showcases the largest collection in the US to date. Guibert has been documenting his relations with his friends, lovers, and the social energies around him, as a photographer, journalist, theorist, and AIDS activist. His journals that were only recently translated into a nearly six-hundred-page tome, showcase a winding, dynamic subjectivity: insatiably attentive, emotionally sensitive to the events of everyday life, while somehow unaware of his own romanticism. Guibert was choosing his locations within mostly hotel rooms, to emphasize by a aspiration to testify his presence across temporary locations, and his lover, Thierry, is often depicted within these neutral, cozy settings.
Hervé Guibert CALLICOON FINE ARTS | 49 DELANCEY STREET 49 Delancey Street May 29–July 25
Japanese millinery designer Maiko Takeda presented her eye-catching 2013 MA collection ‘Atmospheric Reentry’ at London’s Royal Collage of Art. Her series of exciting sculptural headpieces that were covered in acetate bristles where also presented on this year’s accessories division of ITS competition sponsored by YKK. Born in Tokyo, Takeda moved to London back in 2005 to study jewelry design at Central Saint Martins. ‘Atmospheric Reentry’ was designed with a desire to create hats that blurred boundaries to their surrounding environment, inspired by the Philip Glass opera Einstein on the Beach, that was originally directed by Robert Wilson. Although they look somehow futuristic, all of Takeda’s designs were painstakingly crafted by hand, as she wanted to keep something tactile and analog about them. The effect is in the final result, that created somehow a digital look, made of tactile and low-tech materials.
Establishing a certain connection between high population and a diversity of carnal urges, “Ten Million Rooms of Yearning. Sex in Hong Kong” is a five-venue exhibition located across the city that sees an arguably decreasing local libido, through the aesthetics of the crowded and the homoerotic. More generally, it open-mindedly reflects to the non-mainstream experiences of BDSM, Internet sex, and paid sex. Presenting various works from thirty nine artists in media including painting, drawing, photography, digital animation, video, sculpture, print, and installation mostly openly phallic, the exhibition creates a messy and overcrowded thrift-store feeling.
“Ten Million Rooms of Yearning. Sex in Hong Kong” PARA SITE G/F, 4 Po Yan Street, Sheung Wan May 10 - August 10
Andrew McGibbon decided to challenge society by taking a different look at snakes with his ‘Slitherstition’ series. Intrigued by the way these cold-blooded reptiles make it into the symbol of dark and evil, the South African photographer presented them within an unusual setup, featuring warm light on bright colours. “I am looking at their enchanting beauty and design, and their vulnerability, as creatures simply existing outside of the buckling pressure of the evil they are meant to represent.”
Based on a quirky combination of sporty garments and exquisite tailored suiting, the Fall/Winter 2014 LANVIN collection is fit for any occasion. Incorporating designs that are swiveling around steady precise lines, Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz and men’s designer Lucas Ossendrijver present luxury redefined for casual essentials. Tailored for the younger generation of style-conscious men, the collection features many wardrobe essentials that come along with fine tailoring, elegant knits, glossy materials and completed with a range of colorful sneakers.
Channeling her love and adoration for Yeezy’s soulmate Hannah Kunkle comes up with a series of digital artworks, portraying her idol as various deities, from Jesus to Kali. Kunkle simply couldn’t resist her “crazy bodacious and the nose job of an angel”, claiming that she sees Jay-Z as the father, Yeezus as the son, and Kim as the ever-present holy ghost of pop culture. As to critics they seem to not getting over with her religious views. It is said that couple of Religious leaders have spoken out against her art, calling it “sacrilegious, irrelevant, and disrespectful,” among other things. A catholic priest said that he considered the work to be “dumb and stupid,” while a pastor in the Bronx said that Kunkle should “leave Kim and Jesus separate… To cross so many lines and actually imagine her with a cross, which is the most important thing Jesus did, is inappropriate. There are other ways to depict that imagery without combining those images.”
After a training as a bespoke tailor, Alice Knackfuss graduated from the Fashion and Design Academy of Munich when she went on to work in the design departments of Kris van Assche and Ute Ploier. This season, with sheer effects and tailored styles, Alice celebrates eclecticism, combining references that do no necessarily match. A chaotic, joyful and liberated stance comes to define it. Innocent and eccentric at the same time, her pieces reinterpret American staples -such as the classic baseball jacket and generic sports cap- giving them a contemporary twist.
Born in 1967 in Tel Aviv. Lives in Warsaw. Since his first exhibition, in 1999, Michael Ackerman has made his mark by bringing a new, radical and unique approach. His work on Varanasi, entitled “End Time City,” breaks away from all sorts of exoticism or any anecdotal attempt at description, to question time and death with a freedom granted by a distance from the panoramic – whose usage he renewed – to squares or rectangles. In black and white, with permanent risk that led him to explore impossible lighting, he allowed the grainy images to create enigmatic and pregnant visions. Michael Ackerman seeks – and finds – in the world he traverses, reflections of his personal malaise, doubts and anguish. He received the Nadar Award for his book “End Time City” in 1999, and the Infinity Award for Young Photographer by the International Center of Photography in 1998. In 2009, he won the SCAM Roger Pic Award for his series “Departure, Poland”. His last book “Half Life” has been published in 2010 by Robert Delpire.
Michael Ackerman at mc2gallery from 27 May 2014 - 25 July 2014 Via Malaga 4 20143 Milano citofono 72
For her Fall/Winter 2013 collection Kas Kryst turned to streetwear and especially focused on skater subculture in its darkest representation. Layering the dark shades with various textures, including leather, knitwear and sheer mesh, Kryst comes up with a modern, well-fit and comfortable forms. Along with a plain and clean tailoring Kas Kryst Fall/Winter 2013 collection takes the street subculture into a completely new level.
Tatev was one of the photographers, that I was always taking into consideration, as I was following her works I couldn’t help but love her mostly covert, surveillance-type photographs structured in a rather ‘colonial-bourgeois haze’. Almost like a painting, her photos reflected the gaze that locates and subjugates the objects in a presumption of realism, taking the viewer into the position of a mere spectator capturing the paradoxically impoverished reality. The nature is placed in a way to look more trapped rather than in it’s natural habitat. Her simple flowers come along a naïve naturalism that is out to express the simple, but cornered beauty. In her works realist aesthetics are tailored to reflect a rather bourgeois experience, playing along with lights and shadows in a way that makes a photo look more like oil on canvas.
Another standout single by Luke Vibert's acid-packed Ridmik LP (released recently on Hypercolour), the swinging “Acage” got itself a video treatment. Along with funkier rhythms, the low-swung bass and sluggish chords of “Acage” are accompanied by bewitching slices of augmented reality. Giant herds of birds are transformed into ever-changing patterns, and used afterwards to turn the lines between telephone lines into increasingly twisted ornaments throughout the whole video.
Studying the all new possibilities of combining strict geometric forms with prints Co|te Fall/Winter collection presents a more sensual and feminine side of simple forms and patterns. The combination of strong chromatic textiles and tender prints are completed with jacquard fabrics, which brings along some neat 3D effect. The palette varies between the tones of blues/violets, corals and of course added with a handful dose of black. I loved the use of those pleated skirts, that were combined with voluminous tees or printed bomber jackets. The collection also brings out various uses of the jacket, be that printed neoprene bombers or wool jackets with geometric details.
If you’ve ever been wandering how will you look like once transformed into ACSII text art, now you can experience that in full: say hi to this new web app that converts you webcam visual feed into real-time text characters. Originally released back in 2012, the ASCIIcam app has been updated and was recently reposted on Reddit by its maker Erik Fredricksen. Enjoy!
Its been not until recently, that I discovered the previously unknown world of dutch designers. After my trip to Rotterdam Fashion Week, I decided to have a small research on whatever I can find and was surprised about the amount of talent and beauty that holds this country. My recent study of dutch design brought me across Janna van Vugt’s complex architectural designs. Based in The Hague, Janna gently compares sophisticated architectural forms with elements from mother nature. Naming the The Goetheanum (1928, Rudolf Steiner) as her major source of inspiration, she’s constructing her pieces by combining the plastic forms and floating lines along with vapid surfaces, that bring out a rather enchanting duo. The finished work represents a placid and delicate image, filed with various eye-catching details.